It has never been determined if art imitates life or if the reverse is true, that life imitates art. And since the essence of life is movement, it can be said that the jewelry industry has had its share of movements that dictate fads and latest fashion trends. “Costume jewelry” was not coined until the 1920’s. But people in ancient times, like what we do today, did wear jewelry to adorn themselves.
Rhinestones are primarily known as a fine imitation of diamonds. It figured in three art movements from the 1890s until the modern period. Rhinestones were first gathered from the Rhine River before synthetic alternatives like acrylic and glass was discovered by rhinestone manufacturers. Rhinestones, in fact, were not commercially produced until 1775, when jeweler George Strass found a way to add the same glitter of diamond to an ordinary glass.
Art Nouveau Movement
This art movements was a relatively short lived period – from 1890-1910. This movement radically deviated from the mass production and somberness of the Victorian era. Many of the restrictions of the Victorian era were taken away and creativity produced jewelry that was essentially just mimics of life. It was also during this time that the different enameling techniques became popular.
The feminine side of women at this time became celebrated. There was a partiality toward moonstones, soft curves, citrines, opals, and carved glass. Stylized designs, pastel colors, and flowing curves indicate this period. It was at this time, in 1891, that Daniel Swarovski created a glass-cutting machine, making rhinestones a dazzling yet a cheap alternative to diamonds. Rhinestones since then have practically revolutionized the jewelry business.
Retro Movement
From 1935 to around the 1950’s, the spotlight was on American jewelry. It was at this time that the fashion houses of Paris went for a vacation and America was at the forefront of ready-to-wear. Costume jewelry also flourished at this time. Now thanks to Hollywood actors, flamboyant and oversized jewelry pieces became in vogue –from charm bracelets to cocktail rings. Jewelry became more whimsical and gold was beginning to regain its popularity. Rhinestones from the Czech Republic and Austria, and much of the jewelry from France and Europe, at this time were not imported to the United States. At war’s end, bigger and bolder jewelry became the craze – from oversized watches, bracelets, and rings. Synthetic rubies and other gems also made a comeback. Jewelry completely made of rhinestones was also made during this period - rhinestone parures then were very popular.
Modern Period
It was in 1953 that the Aurora Borealis process was developed. The process allowed rhinestones to reflect a rainbow of colors. It is because of the Aurora Borealis effect that rhinestones became such a hit. The 1960’s hippie movement brought new interest in natural materials for jewelry. Handmade jewelry also made a comeback. And from the 1960’s all through the end of the new millennium, most gold jewelry was made of yellow gold. In the 1970s, the rhinestone made a comeback in fashion. They were very popular especially among members of the 1980s disco generation. GP
